Country Cousins
After I left my home in Allentown for the University of Pennsylvania,
my accent betrayed the fact that I was an "Upcountry Dutchman."
I was teased about being part of the "too soon old and too late
schmart" crowd. The older I get the more I appreciate the truth of
that Pennsylvania Dutch piece of wisdom. Age comes too fast and wisdom too
slow.
Growing up in Allentown, I had two older sisters, however, I had no
cousins. Well, that’s not quite true. I had two cousins but they lived
in Birmingham, Alabama and I never met them until they were adults. So, I
was thrilled, when I married a lustrous auburn haired South Georgia girl
in the mid-nineteen fifties and inherited, through marriage, a passel of
cousins.
Our wedding reception was held on the front lawn of her parents’ farm
house with cattle mooing in the background as milking time approached. In
the receiving line I was introduced to cousins, second cousins, second
cousins once removed—I think there were even a few who were twice
removed—kissin’ cousins, and country cousins. I couldn’t keep them
all straight but it was obvious that in rural South Georgia there was no
"six degrees of separation," everyone there had a tenuous
relationship of some sort to everyone else.
I never thought, however, of "country cousins" as a term
applicable to two countries that have a tenuous relationship to each other—and
sometimes not so tenuous—until I finished reading the current issue of
the Atlantic where Nadya Labi, a New York based writer, described The
Kingdom in the Closet. Since in the 1980s I served as a physician in the
Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, I read the article with interest.
According to Ms. Labi, who recently spent an extended time in Saudi
interviewing gay men in Jeddah, Saudi’s major seaport, and Riyadh, the
country’s capital, homosexuality is thriving within the Kingdom; it’s
just not acknowledged or talked about. The comment of a local police
officer was, "If they tried to arrest all the gay people in Saudi
Arabia, they’d have to put a fence around the whole country."
Interestingly, while homosexual activity is officially forbidden and
sodomy is punishable by death, "…as long as gays and lesbians
maintain a public front of obeisance to Wahabist norms, they are left to
do what they want in private." The Wahabis are the puritanical Muslim
sect supported by the Saudi royal family.
"For many Saudis, the fact that a man has sex with another man has
little to do with ‘gayness.’ The act may fulfill a desire or need, but
it doesn’t constitute an identity. Nor does it strip a man of his
masculinity, as long as he is the ‘top,’ or has the active role."
Saudis don’t see men having sex with men in terms of genetics,
life-style or choice. Instead, they view it as a behavior, which may
change. Or, it may not.
The findings by Ms. Labi confirm my own experience of two decades ago.
While I was working in an isolated area of the Kingdom, I occasionally
visited Riyadh or Jeddah on hospital business. The "suq," or
market place, with its curb-side merchants of gold and spices and carpets,
was like a scene from The Tales of the Arabian Nights—or more
realistically like a centerfold from National Geographic. As I entered the
suq in Jeddah one evening—not because I was interested in shopping but
simply because the suq was the only entertainment in town—I noticed that
a score or more of Saudi men were leaning against the lamp posts and palm
trees in the spacious entry plaza of the suq. Responding to urgent signals
from my gaydar, I positioned myself in front of a nearby palm. Within a
few minutes, a young Saudi wearing the traditional ankle-length white
semi-sheer gown called a thawb approached me and asked if I had a match.
Now that’s a pick up line that even I recognized. It’s universal to
gays and straights and is ageless.
My new acquaintance spoke English well, in part because he was in the
Saudi Air Force and had spent two years training in the Atlanta area. He
was married, had two children, and his family lived in a desert village
north of the city. With some trepidation that the desk clerk might
question his accompanying me to my room, he went back to my hotel with me.
The desk clerk was busy with other guests and we breezed right by.
The sex, as I recall it, wasn’t particularly memorable but, like a
swig of water when you’re in a barren desert country, it was refreshing.
Before he left, I questioned him about the difficulties of being gay in
Saudi Arabia. Consistent with the findings of Ms. Labi, he didn’t
identify himself as gay. He was a married man who enjoyed sex with other
men.
His explanation was that, "When we grow up, there’s no such
thing as dating girls. Saudis are never intimate with a woman until they
get married and for many of us that’s in our late twenties. Up until
marriage many Saudi men have sex with other Saudi men and with boys. Some
of us find that even after marriage we like to be with men—especially
when we are far away from home."
While this explanation was surface reasonable, we both knew that he
wasn’t at the entry to the suq cruising out of sexual desperation. His
wife was only one hundred kilometers away. Whether he identified himself
as gay or not, he was there by choice. Ms. Labi concludes that, "To
be gay in Saudi Arabia is to live a contradiction—to have license
without rights, and to enjoy a broad tolerance without the most minimal
acceptance. The closet is not a choice; it’s a rule of survival."
In the Kingdom, "Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell" isn’t a
military policy; it’s a way of life. The official Committee on the
Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vice regulates behavior in the
public realm but what occurs behind closed doors is considered to be
between a believer and Allah. "This seems to be the way of the
Kingdom: essentially, ‘Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell.’ Private misbehavior
is fine as long as public decorum is observed."
It seems as if KSA and USA share more than their love of oil. We share
"Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell." In reading The Kingdom in the
Closet I realized that no matter how tenuous the relationship between KSA
and USA becomes at times, we’re more than political allies, we’re
country cousins.
John Siegfried, a former Rehoboth resident who now lives in Ft.
Lauderdale, maintains strong ties to our community and can be reached at