From what I’ve sampled so far, Rehoboth seems to be blessed this
year with some creative and tasty new additions to the dining scene. One
of the latest is DISH! A Retro Dining Gallery (26 Baltimore Avenue, the
site of the former New Amsterdam Café, though you won’t recognize it
in its festive new decor).
The masterminds behind DISH! are chefs Riche Griffin
(pictured at right) and Cyrus
Keefer. Riche, well known locally as a chef at a number of
establishments, met Cyrus in the fall of 2001, and it wasn’t long
before they started sharing ideas of hip, fun food in a great
environment. They both love fusion cuisine as well as classic French, so
DISH! has a very varied menu full of taste sensations from around the
world.
Rocky was our waitress, and she was great fun. She knew her menu
well, made suggestions, and had a wonderful sense of humor. She told us
of the day’s specials while we looked over the menu. For starters our
possibilities included steamed pork wontons with spicy cucumber salad
and wasabi foam, shrimp toast with horseradish and roasted garlic puree,
as well as grilled pizzas and more. We opted for the corn and lump crab
cakes with chipotle mayonnaise, red pepper coulis, and fried onion
crunches, which was very artfully served with the sauces drizzled on and
around the crab cakes, the onions bringing in some crunchiness, and the
crab itself, exquisite. Our second choice was crispy calamari, which we
ordered only after grilling Rocky. Both my dinner companion and I warned
her that we have been to too many restaurants that say theirs is crispy,
but somehow you always end up with a plate of greasy rubbery and
disappointing calamari. She assured us this would not happen here, and
she was right. It’s served with a sweet Thai dipping sauce, fried Thai
basil, and crushed peanuts, and we both agreed that this was probably
the best calamari we have ever had. It was perfectly done, very crunchy,
and the addition of the peanuts and fried basil just added new
dimensions to its flavor and texture. There was not a crumb left on the
plate!
For entrees, the special whole red snapper sounded right up my alley,
but then so did the maple lacquered salmon fillet with bourbon cream and
the grilled chili dusted pork medallions with jalapeno polenta and
avocado puree. We finally ordered the lightly jerked sea bass with
crunchy corn crust, served with a banana-rum beurre blanc, vanilla
infused sweet potato puree, banana fritters and marinated asparagus.
Beautifully presented, it was superb.
The fish was fresh and tasty, especially with the crust, and all the
flavors and textures on the plate were quite wonderful. My friend chose
the prosciutto wrapped pan-seared filet mignon with blue butter, red
currant-port reduction, grilled figs, and house made herb potato chips.
The filet was so tender you could cut it with your fork, and it sat atop
the potatoes, which were all in turn sitting in that delicious reduction
that perfectly complemented it. The figs were a nice touch. Highly
recommended!
A light orange crème brulee with fresh berries and Girl Scout
cookies (how can you go wrong with that?) and a dense chocolate crunch
torte with peanut butter whipped cream and toffee crème anglaise
brought a perfect meal to a perfect close.
In addition to the great food and service, I was also very happy to
see the display of absolutely divine mosaic mirrors created by local
artist/chef Mary Gaffney. All made of hand-cut stained glass, mirror,
ceramic tiles and various found objects, each one is gorgeous and
unique.
As I head out of town after 7 years of great memories and friends,
I know many of you have been waiting so you could take over this column.
Too late! Marion McGrath, a former Letters columnist is returning to
town and will be writing from restaurants old and new.