Animal, Vegetable, Miracle (2007)
Barbara Kingsolver with Steven L. Hopp and Camille Kingsolver
Zucchini bread. Zucchini cake. Fried zucchini. Baked zucchini. Zucchini
soup. Stewed zucchini. Raw zucchini. Her repertoire of recipes for the
vegetable was endless, much like the profusion of green emanating from our
garden each day. My mother had carefully paced out the large square in our
new backyard, eager to exercise her botanical talents after a year of
apartment living. The container garden with its wild strawberries and
cherry tomatoes took a back seat to the long, even rows of watermelon,
potato, carrot, tomato, and, of course, zucchini plants. It all thrived,
but none so much as the zucchini. I was probably six at the time, and I
remember our fascination with the hearty plants as they took over their
surrounding areas. Carrots were rescued from under the tumbling vines,
potatoes buried under the foliage. Something in that Baltimore city soil
spoke to those plants and we had quite a harvest in our own backyard. No
one visited friends without taking along a tubular green gift that summer.
As appreciative as we were, the next year that end of the garden hosted a
lot more tomato plants.
Barbara Kingsolver, best known for her novels like The Bean Trees and
The Poisonwood Bible, recreated that memory for me with her latest book, a
non-fiction recollection of the past year in the author’s life. In
Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, Kingsolver, with the help of her husband and
daughter, describes what fueled her family’s decision to not only move
from Tucson to their 100-year-old farm in Virginia’s Appalachian
Mountains, but also to attempt to develop a locally-sustainable food
relationship with the area.
About ten years ago, I was living in Minneapolis, a very
forward-thinking city, and I became a member of my friend Andrea’s
Community Supported Agriculture program (CSA) that essentially allow
members to purchase a share of a local small farm’s harvest. Whatever
Andrea and her helpers unearthed that week was what we received in waxy
boxes from the back of her girlfriend’s truck every Sunday. At the time,
I had no idea what half of the vegetables were, but Andrea was creative
and resourceful, and she soon developed a cookbook to accommodate those of
us who had not yet cooked Kohlrabi on our own. I still have the cookbook;
it’s filled with information about each vegetable, including harvest,
storage, and cooking information. Although Andrea explained it to me, I
was also relatively unaware of the importance of CSAs and the idea of
local eating. Kingsolver makes a compelling argument for the growing
movement towards local eating.
"Locavores" is the term that Kingsolver decided best fit her
family’s decision. She, her husband, and their two girls banned all
non-local food from their home, excepting a few necessities like olive
oil. Goodbye to oranges in January, tomatoes in February, and salads in
December. As they waited for their new garden to begin producing, the
family relied on the local farmer’s market, their early ventures there
rewarded with the surprising bounty of food. Free-range chicken from local
farms and their own eggs rounded out a healthy, tasty diet. Throughout the
somewhat chronological book, Kingsolver’s daughter, Camille, a
nineteen-year-old college student and yoga teacher, adds short essays of
her own that give a clearer picture of the daily meals the family eats
during a given part of the growing season (even winter); she also includes
simple recipes and website resources for more.
Although many people mistakenly think that this lifestyle is only for
people with money, Kingsolver argues that those critics are unfamiliar
with the concept and the benefits of the choices she made. First, she’s
not advocating buying the high-priced prepackaged organic food from the
health food section of the local Giant. Instead, she explains the benefits
of CSAs, a low-cost alternative available throughout the nation.
Free-range chickens are higher-priced in the grocery store, but farmer’s
markets allow the consumer to develop a direct relationship with the local
farmer, cutting out the travel and mark-up costs while leaving more money
in the pockets of the farmer, better taste and a healthier product for the
consumer, and an infinitely more environmentally responsible transaction—a
large part of the reason why Kingsolver began this endeavor.
Steven L. Hopp, the author’s husband, is a professor of environmental
studies; he, too, offers his perspective throughout the book. While
Camille wrote a more personal reflection, Hopp gives the statistics in
short, relevant sidebars that balance his wife’s writing without bogging
it down. In one such sidebar titled "Oily Food," he explains,
"getting the crop from seed to harvest takes only one-fifth of the
total oil used for food. The lion’s share is consumed during the trip
from farm to your plate." In fact, energy use for agriculture is
almost as high as that for cars. So that Prius purchase sours if you’re
not using it to drive to the farmer’s market instead of a supermarket.
Finally, Kingsolver wonders why we (herself included) ever pay as much
as we do for the privilege of eating fruit and vegetable out of season
when they taste so bad. In order to eat cantaloupe in May in Delaware, the
melon I bought yesterday (at a local produce store!) had to have been
grown far from here. Yup. I flipped it over and that "candy
lope" is from Mexico. I sliced it open, took one bite and threw out
the whole mushy, tasteless mess. Vegetables and fruit are not meant to be
eaten that far from their homes. Transport destroys the amazing burst of
flavor I associate with freshly-picked tomatoes. Those mealy orbs piled
high and shining in the produce section in January are no substitute.
Kingsolver is asking her readers to consider awakening the
nearly-spiritual relationship with food harvest cycles that we have lost
as a society. It’s a fairly simple request. I took the much-delayed step
of finding CSAs in this area. It took about a fifth of a second on Google
to locate communityorganics.org, a local farm run by the Bell family in
Sussex County. Shares in this new CSA are available for periods as short
as four months, with pick up locations at the Lewes and Rehoboth farmer’s
markets. The farm’s website is also a wealth of information about why
and how local eating is important. My application and check are on their
way to the farm right now; I may even take Tim Bell up on his invitation
to visit the Greenville-based farm. This summer, Beth and I will be
enjoying a variety of vegetables and eggs collected just a few miles from
home. It’s not quite the undertaking that Kingsolver made, but it’s a
start. Local eating also validates our dedication to Dogfish Head brewery,
not that we needed a reason. While they do ship nationwide, we pick it up
ourselves right from the brewery. Perhaps by August, I’ll pair a cool
pint of Shelter Pale Ale with a grilled zucchini sandwich for a
sunshine-filled lunch on the back porch.
Animal, Vegetable, Miracle is an inspiring, and highly-readable blend
of Kingsolver’s trademark narrative style with factual information. Read
it and reap the rewards all summer long.