EatingOUT: 

Okay, let’s see if I can come up with enough superlatives to describe Venus on the Half Shell. It won’t be easy. Justine Carpenter, owner of Rehoboth’s wonderful Planet X has spread her culinary wings and touched down in Dewey Beach. Located at Dagsworthy Street and the Bay, Venus is in a setting that complements and highlights the grandness of it all. The bayside location is bound to provide you, if you time it right, with a glorious sunset. If you prefer your sunsets even more up-close and personal, try for one of the outdoor tables.

The exterior is painted a vivid Boticelli blue, and bouquets of twinkle lights brighten up your way to the door. Inside, well, it’s simply breathtaking. There’s a definite Oriental flair, accented by carved wood pieces everywhere you look. It’s easy to think you’ve made a wrong turn and landed in Bali or another exotic locale. The textured silver ceiling is a backdrop for huge rattan fans. The room is on two levels, with the lower framed by enormous sliding glass doors that can bring the outdoors in on those special summer evenings. You might want to plop down on the cushioned divan (that has to be thirty feet long) on the first level, and gaze in wonder at the stunning silvered and mirrored raw bar, just the right location for a game of "mirror, mirror on the wall." There are many more things that could be said, but, truly, it’s a place you should see for yourself and marvel at the imagination it took to assemble it.

After we were seated, Susan and I were in the capable hands of Aleigha and her trainee, Lisa. They were a great team and gave us the considered attention that you always expect in wait-staff, but often don’t see. The first thing I took note of on the menu was the large number of items listed for the raw bar. Raw oysters or clams not your thing? Then how about steamed Green Lip Mussels, Jumbo Shrimp, or the Three Caviar (roe) sampler? If you’re adventurous enough, the Sake Oyster Shooter could be just the way to start a meal. Soups, salads and small plates offer a wonderful variety of starters. As well as Caesar salad and organic mixed green salads, there’s a seafood salad of jumbo shrimp and cold sea scallops served on a bed of organic greens. Temptation lies in your path with offerings of oysters Rockefeller with prosciutto and spinach. But, the calamari caught my fancy, and Susan ordered the special of three caviar sushi rolls.

Never have I eaten calamari more tender or fried so lightly. It was perfection and has set a new standard for me. Susan’s caviar sushi arrived beautifully arranged on a triangular plate and proved to be a smash.

The entrees focus on seafood, but offer beef, chicken and even a tofu dish as alternatives, as well as daily specials. Tuna, salmon, sea bass, mahi-mahi, and halibut make an appearance and the side dishes offered with them go way beyond the standard seasonal vegetables. Imagine such things as red-pepper pine nut couscous, shrimp-truffle risotto, and fried plantain with mango kiwi salsa, and you can anticipate a meal that goes well beyond average.

After much deliberation, Susan ordered the crab cakes. No Old Bay concoctions, these. Two big crab cakes that, we were told, were 99% jumbo lump crabmeat were treated with some sort of saffron seasoning, and held together by sheer willpower. It’s the crab cake you’ve dreamed about and then some. Grilled asparagus with spicy lemon aioli were just the right accompaniment. Chinese spiced duck was one of the daily specials and was my choice. The sliced tender duck breast was lapped with a blueberry, port reduction sauce redolent with plumb berries. If it were possible for duck to melt in your mouth, this would have. It was served with a truly unusual side dish—sliced sweet potato layered with red onion that was mixed with jack cheese and smoked Gouda. To gild the lily, heavy cream with a dash of cinnamon is poured over it just before it’s baked. Heavenly. Who could resist ordering a side dish of wasabi mashed potatoes? We sure didn’t, and they were great. Just enough hint of wasabi to wake up your taste buds and not overwhelm them.

So many great sounding desserts, such stretched but still limited stomachs—Susan’s Key lime pie was the perfect combination of sweet, slightly tart,and smooth. The fried banana cheesecake that’s served at Planet X makes an appearance here. The two towers of crispy pastry are filled with creamy banana cheesecake and topped with caramel sauce—ecstasy on a plate.