Café Solé—A Bright Star
If you’ve strolled down Baltimore Avenue, and who hasn’t?, you’ve
probably noticed Café Solé, and may have stopped to read over its
outside menu. You shouldn’t stop there—go in and enjoy one of the best
meals you’ll find at the beach. You just might snag an outdoor seat on
their prettily situated terrace, edged in plants and flowers, and
featuring a lovely wall fountain that incorporates three suns.
Suns are the decorative theme, and the inside is awash in a palette of
blues and gold, complete with a blue ceiling splashed with golden suns.
When Susan and I were there the mixed media, bright paintings of Patti
Shreeve adorning the walls added a lot of visual interest. This is the
seventh season for Café Solé, owned and operated by what may be Rehoboth’s
only mother/daughter restaurateurs, Bev and Lauren Cox. Even husband/dad
Bob pitches in during the day. A genuine family restaurant with the feel
and food of an upscale eatery.
We were seated by Penny, one of the warmest and friendliest of wait
persons anywhere, who made an instant hit with me when she actually asked
if we wanted our water with or without lemon. I really don’t like lemon
in my water, and it always comes as an unpleasant surprise when it arrives
unannounced on my table. In addition to that auspicious beginning, Penny
was truly a great culinary guide and wealth of information.
Specials of the day included potato/lima bean soup and a fresh, Panko
seared (that’s a form of Japanese breadcrumbs) halibut topped with goat
cheese and pesto. Among the goodies on the regular menu were the featured
cream of crab soup, and an interesting sounding housemade paté. Susan
decided on the paté, and I the queen of moderation, asked if it would be
possible to have a half cup of both the crab and potato/lima soups. It
was, and they both were superb (souperb?). Susan’s paté came in three
layers: chicken, pork tenderloin, and chicken liver sandwiched in between.
The accompanying crostinis were the perfect plate-to-mouth conveyance.
Wonderful to look at, amazing to taste. When we had finished those, Penny
arrived with a plate bearing a crab cake that is also listed on the
appetizers. She said it was a house specialty, and the chef really wanted
us to try it. Wow, and double wow. This may be, outside of the ones I
make, the best crab cake I’ve ever tasted. High praise, and well
deserved.
Those same crab cakes are featured as an entrée, along with offerings
such as spice rubbed tenderloin of beef, cornmeal seared salmon, pan
seared breast of duck, and other fine sounding main courses. Unusual for
me, I decided to order the angel hair pasta with shrimp and scallops. It
all but floated in a cream sauce of basil/goat cheese, pesto, plum
tomatoes, and pine nuts. The amount of shrimp and scallops almost equaled
the amount of pasta. If you’re going to waste carbs, this is the way to
do it. Susan asked for the whole grain mustard marinated pork tenderloin,
which came with a grilled pear vinaigrette, gorgonzola, port-walnut glaze,
the creamiest of garlic mashed potatoes, and the most tender of green
beans. The pork was fork tender, and had the hearty flavor that pork was
meant to have before some misguided soul invented "healthy"
pork.
Café Solé’s lunch menu is also quite extensive, and features a
large selection of vegetarian dishes and sandwiches. Chef Lauren got tired
of going places where vegetarians are ignored and wanted to make sure her
menu celebrated non-meat selections. In fact, all the platters listed on
the lunch menu have no meat with the exception of the chef’s salad,
which has ham. Carnivores are not ignored—why not ask for the Cuban mix
sandwich with Cuban pork, ham, cheddar, lettuce, tomato served on focaccia.
The lunch menu has been voted Best of Delaware by Delaware Today magazine
for the third year in a row.
A truly great meal should end with a truly great dessert. Café Solé
does not let you down. All desserts are made by chef-owner Lauren Cox and
they are all stars: pies of Key lime, coconut custard and peanut butter;
chocolate-chocolate chip cake; croissant bread pudding, and an intriguing
sounding chocolate silk. Susan didn’t hesitate a heartbeat to order the
bread pudding—buttery croissants, brandied raisins served warm and
topped with whipped cream. I thought I was going to have to twist her arm
to give me a taste. Old-style bread pudding will never taste the same to
me. Delicious isn’t a strong enough word. Penny recommended the
chocolate silk. This is a Chocolate Festival prizewinner, and Penny said
it was so good she could take a bath in it. After that testimony how could
I turn it down? Glad I didn’t. The menu says it’s one of the best
reasons to "save room for dessert," and that’s sooo right.
This fudge-like torte sits on a toasted walnut-pecan praline crust, and
dares you to eat it all. I surrendered, and left two bites. I think back
on that and wish I hadn’t!
Café Solé is, simply put, a wonderful restaurant with fantastic food,
service and ambience. It shines!
Café Solé, 44 Baltimore Ave. in Rehoboth Beach, is open daily for
lunch at 11 a.m. and dinner from 5:30 p.m. They do not accept
reservations.