The Back Porch Café is tucked snugly away down a corridor right off of
Rehoboth Avenue (number 59). You might have to double back to find the
entrance, but it’s more than worth the extra few steps. Being set back
provides an environment that is free of traffic and pedestrian noise. Once
inside you’ll notice a sort of Key West ambience. There’s a big bar
that just begs you to stop for a Happy Hour drink. The main room is
invitingly pleasant with soft yellow walls and wood paneling, brightened
by a skylight. Yes, there is a back porch, or deck, that has two levels
and a tented cover that comes out on rainy days. A smaller dining room off
of the deck is a bit more private, or you can ask to be seated in the room
that sports the bar. Regardless of where you sit, you’re in for a treat.
Our server, Spike, presented Susan and me with a sheet of daily
specials that made us realize that we would have to make some deliciously
difficult decisions. This is a place where you could make a tasty meal out
of two or three appetizers. Passing up Spring Pea and Lobster Ravioli,
Sautéed Sweetbreads with fava beans, asparagus and morels, I zeroed in on
the Backfin Crab Mousse Galette. Susan waffled between the soup of the
day, a Shellfish Cucumber Vichyssoise and the Poached Shrimp and Avocado
Salad in Roasted Chayote then decided on the Grilled Diver Scallops.
The Crab Galette was spectacular. It was abundant with jumbo lump
crabmeat, held together with a shrimp mousse and presented on a platform
of crisp asparagus surrounded by blood orange vinaigrette. The scallops
were kissed by the grill and done to succulent perfection. The
accompanying black bean puree, mango coulis and tomato tartare afforded a
nice contrast of sweet and robust tastes.
Main course selections offer choices that show there is a confident
chef in the kitchen. The side dishes alone are so out of the ordinary that
your tongue tingles in anticipation. Thyme Roasted Guinea Hen with sweet
potato croquette and sautéed fiddlehead ferns; Grilled Loin of Domestic
Lamb offers goat cheese gnocchi, black olive, tomato and fava beans;
Grilled Pork Rib Chop with carrot butternut squash rappe, apple arancini,
green curry sauce. Could you possibly go wrong with Wild Mushroom and
Butternut Squash Risotto Manicotti sided with fresh mozzarella and
vegetable jus? There is a wonderful selection of wine by the glass as well
as bottles that should appeal to everyone.
We went with our server’s suggestions. I enjoyed Oven Roasted Halibut
swimming in a wonderfully fresh corn, blueberry and basil relish that had
a nice flavorful bite to it, and was topped off with a mound of crispy
angel hair onions. The halibut was moist and layered with a wonderful
combination of flavors.
Thumper lovers stop reading here! Susan tucked into a Braised Rabbit
Jambonette that was a subtle contrast of textures and flavor showing a
skilled, sure hand in the cooking. She said it tasted like, no, not
chicken, but wonderfully tender rabbit. Served with it was mascarpone
polenta spiked with black olives and finished off with mushrooms and
aromatic vegetables. The word savory doesn’t do it justice.
Dessert? Of course! When there is bread pudding on a menu my decision
is an easy one and the raspberry bread pudding with lemon sauce is a
delight. The bread was light and fluffy and studded with plenty of fresh
raspberries. The warm lemon sauce and tartness of the berries were nice
offsets to the sweetness of the pudding. The ginger lover in Susan offered
her a tough choice between Ginger Crème Brulee and the intriguing Banana
Espresso Torte. The torte won and left no room for regrets. Its cake-like
consistency was filled with the sweetness of fresh bananas coupled with
bursts of espresso flavor, all iced over with a creamy icing and topped
with a ripe red strawberry.
According to owner Keith Fitzgerald the 29-year-old Back Porch Café is
now the oldest restaurant in Rehoboth and has been at the same continuous
location for all 29 years. You might want to stop in for jazz on Friday
nights or listen to local music on Sunday evenings. Whenever you go, be
prepared for a wonderful meal.
The Back Porch Café, 59 Rehoboth Avenue, is open for lunch and dinner
daily. For reservations, call 302-227-3674.
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