Fancy Houses and Fabric: Jim Thompson’s Rehoboth Connection
On Easter Day in 1967, American businessman and "Thai silk
king" Jim Thompson went for a Sunday stroll in the jungle in the
Cameron Highlands vacation area in central Malaysia. He never came back
and no trace of him has ever been found, despite extensive searches of the
surrounding jungle.
Lots of theories abound—suicide, kidnapping, killed by the CIA,
devoured by tigers—but no explanation for his disappearance has ever
come to light.
While mostly forgotten today, back in 1967 during the height of the
Vietnam War, the story of Thompson’s disappearance was followed by the
world’s leading newspapers, including The New York Times, The London
Times, and the Wall Street Journal. Thompson was a well-known businessman,
socialite, and art collector. Many say he was the best known American
living in Southeast Asia at the time. He is credited with bringing
Thailand’s silk industry back from the brink of extinction.
"Thompson silk," as it became known, was sought by the best
Paris fashion houses and was even used in Windsor Castle. In 1951, his
silk fabric was featured in the Broadway production of The King and I and
in the movie Ben Hur.
Thompson kept company with authors, politicians, artists,
entrepreneurs, and the idle rich. His home in Bangkok was a non-stop
dinner party to which came an assortment of interesting people—Barbara
Hutton, Truman Capote, and Cecil Beaton, among others. Ethel Merman once
serenaded his pet white cockatoo to the tune of "Hello Dolly"
while they dined al fresco beneath the flickering light of coconut oil
torches.
Thompson had many gay friends and associates and it was rumoured that
he was gay, with a taste for "rough trade." His only marriage
was early and short-lived (nine months). And, many whispered too about
alleged ties to the opium trade and to the CIA. After all, he had worked
for the military intelligence in Asia during WWII and then decided to stay
on. The fact that his sister was murdered mysteriously in her own home in
Delaware the same year he disappeared has only fueled the espionage
rumours.
Jim Thompson is a fascinating fellow whose life is filled with intrigue
and innuendo. And though many of the gay boys I talk to know about Jim
Thompson and his silk, not so many know about his Rehoboth connections or
his impact on Thailand’s preservation movement.
Jim Thompson was born to a wealthy and influential family in
Greenville, Delaware, in 1906. His father was president of a successful
textile business. His mother was none other than Mrs. H.B. Thompson, the
society matron who was hell-bent on ridding Rehoboth of its mosquitoes. (I
wrote about Mrs. H.B. Thompson in the June 3 edition of Letters.)
After studying at Princeton and the University of Pennsylvania, Jim
Thompson practiced architecture in New York City from 1931 until 1940. And
though never officially licensed, he designed vacation and country homes
for family friends in Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and
Virginia. His talent extended to gardens and interiors. He had a flair for
color.
His first architectural commission, interestingly, was the bandstand
and public lavoratory in Rehoboth Beach (since torn down and replaced).
For many years, Thompson’s Rehoboth Avenue bandstand was pictured on
souvenir postcards. The common assumption is that he helped design his
mother’s home in Rehoboth. Built in 1928 and based on an 18th century
home from nearby Lewes, the home was named Mon Plaisir ("my
pleasure" in French). It’s the tasteful shingled cottage at the
corner of Park Avenue and First Street.
Thompson is also credited with designing the home owned by Roger and
Jennifer Townsend at 20 Columbia Avenue. This house, named "Mer
Pines," is one of my favorites in Rehoboth, with its big wrap-around
screened porch, hydrangeas, rambling roses, and a beautiful roof that has
a vaguely Asian look to it. And, speculation is that Jim Thompson may have
had a hand in designing the white house at 47 Pennsylvania Avenue, which
was also built by his mother.
I’ve also learned that from 1938-1954, Jim Thompson owned "The
Red House," a cottage built in the 1890s that sits directly on the
beach at the end of Carolina Street in Rehoboth-By-The-Sea. It’s owned
by the Obrecht family of Baltimore and was recently featured in Style
Magazine and in Dewey Beach History and Tales by Barbara Dougherty.
Barbara tells me that one of Jim Thompson’s nieces lives in Henlopen
Acres….
Thompson carried his love of architecture with him to Thailand. In
1959, he built a traditional Thai-style house in Bangkok, which was very
unusual for the time. Bangkok real estate developers at mid-Century were
quickly building American ranch style homes to meet what they thought were
the needs of all the foreigners pouring into the city.
This attitude changed quickly after he erected his traditional house,
which became one of the sights to see in the capital city, as celebrated
as its temples and floating markets. The house today is a museum that
showcases Thompson’s vast collection of porcelains, carvings, paintings,
and Buddhist objects.
After Thompson built his house, it soon became quite fashionable among
locals and foreigners to build elevated, wooden Thai-style residences,
with raised thresholds (for good luck), plenty of doors and windows to
allow a free circulation of air, and those swooping, elegant roofs.
Thompson may not have saved Thai architecture, as he certainly saved
Thai silk, but he played a powerful role in restoring it to prominence and
in proving that old houses could be adapted to suit contemporary needs
without destroying their essential character.
There’s a good book about Jim Thompson, Jim Thompson: the Unsolved
Mystery, by William Warren, who knew him well.
As I spend more time in Rehoboth, I’m constantly learning about the
interesting characters who have run through this little beach town that I
like so much. I look forward to telling their tales, too.