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EatingOUT: 

by Marion McGrath

Fish On Has Landed in Lewes

The Five Points area in Lewes is a rapidly expanding and happening place. In fact, the area was begging for a great restaurant. Enter Matt Healy and his wonderful new restaurant, Fish On. It’s only about a fifteen-minute drive from Rehoboth—less time than you’ll spend hunting for a parking place in town, and when you get there, there’s parking space with no hassle.

The first thing that struck me was the unusual name. So, when our server, Christina, seated us one of the first questions I asked was what Fish On meant. Apparently it’s a well-known phrase among those who fish (that excludes me, and probably a lot of you!). When someone on board hooks a big fish, it’s common practice to yell, "fish on" to alert someone to grab a net and rush over to help you land the fish on deck. Christina said that it’s sort of like the "fore" in golf. That explained, we could turn our full attention to our surroundings.

Fish On has quite a striking interior. High ceilings banked by walls that are finished in black and a soft white, with splashes of orange accents. There are large airy windows, some of which overlook a big outdoor patio with plenty of seating. There’s a long bar, and behind that is a large, busy, open kitchen giving you a glimpse of how the preparations happen. True to theme there are a couple of buckets of fishing poles and fish mounted over the bar. There’s a lot of eye appeal.

On to the menu, and quite a menu it is. Christina was really helpful to us, and guided us to some great choices, all done with a lot of charm and enthusiasm. Be sure not to overlook the intricate vine tattoo that winds its way around her left ankle. There is, of course, the list of specials, and we were told that there’s a list of drink specials in the works. So far there are five offerings, all unusual and interesting. Susan took the plunge and ordered her first Mojito. A heavenly combination of muddled sugar, lime, mint and rum with a splash of soda water. You couldn’t find a more refreshing drink. My sip instantly converted me—goodbye Cosmopolitan, helllloooo Mojito!

Before I write another word, let me tell you about the bread that will be put on your table. It is awesome! Huge slices taken from loaves that are baked fresh daily on premises. The highest praise I can give it is to say it is as good as any piece of cake I’ve ever had.

There are a number of things on the starter menu that I’ve not seen before. There are two offerings of soy beans, one served chilled with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, the other served as hummus, sprinkled with old bay and sided with a stack of homemade grilled flat bread. Susan opted for the soybean hummus, and it was quite a hit. It had a light unusual flavor, and was smooth yet retained crunchiness. The pickled white anchovies held an interest for me, but I couldn’t resist the baked scallops, nestled on a bed of white beans and topped off with bread crumbs, smoked bacon and crawfish essence. A great combination, which highlighted the velvety texture of the scallops, and let their flavor shine.

When soft shell crabs are in season my choice of main course is easy. Fish On had them as a special, and special they were. The crabs were lightly battered and deep-fried. They were light, crispy and delicious, served with green beans and almonds, and the ripest red tomato salad I’ve had so far this year. The menu is long on seafood (as to be expected), but has plenty of other offerings to satisfy the most diverse of appetites. Susan surprised me when she ordered shrimp on grits! I’ve have never known her to eat grits, and she always sort of cringes when I order them. Grits are a part of my heritage, and these were the best ever. The shrimp was cooked to tender perfection and shared the space with spicy slices of chorizo sausage.

There was rustic bread pudding listed as dessert, and I asked Christina if it was made with the same bread we were served earlier. Her "sure" made my decision a snap. Susan ordered the fruit crisp. Both desserts were served warm. The bread pudding was so great that I hated myself for not being able to finish it (but loved it when I had the leftovers for lunch the next day). The fruit crisp was a marvelous combination of fresh strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries, and topped with a crumbly topping and a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. The stuff dreams (and body fat!) are made of.

Give yourself a real treat this summer—enjoy a fabulous meal at Fish On. It’s the reel deal!


Fish On, located in The Villages of Five Points, Lewes, is open daily from 5 p.m. Call 302-645-9790 for reservations.

LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth, Vol. 14, No. 10   July 30, 2004

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