It had been a while since Susan and I had stopped into S.O.B.’s and we were pleasantly surprised to see what has happened there in the past few months. The biggest news is that they are now serving a dinner menu, and you can accompany that with a bottle of beer, glass of wine, or a cocktail.

Owner Tom McDermott and new partner/owner Lion Gardner have really expanded the space. To say "expanded" doesn’t do it justice. In addition to the space that has been occupied by S.O.B.’s for the past four years, the new space occupies all of what was formerly the Java Beach coffee shop. Tom and Lion have gone from a deli that seated twenty to a restaurant that seats ninety-five. Quite a leap, and the new space is wonderful. There’s still that fabulous patio seating that faces out on Baltimore Avenue, plus an adjunct space that is whimsically named "Lovers’ Lane." What used to be a dingy alley space has been converted into a charming outdoor place complete with its own Lion fountain and greenery.

Tom describes the new digs as "Greek Islands meets Nantucket, meets Philadelphia." Whatever description applies, the place is a delight. Soft yellow walls, blue and white rectangular tables hand painted by Tom and friends, and fun touches such as the statue of L’Enfant Pis which has been coyly dubbed Johnny Whiz. A rare example of good taste and humor. I also need to mention that there’s a separate, charming dining area that seats eight for private parties. Comfortable high-back chairs surround the table, and there’s a gauze curtain that can be drawn to screen off the rest of the world, and at the same time add a touch of elegance.

We were handed our new menus by our server, Brew, whose killer smile would be worth the trip. Not only is Brew cute, but, more importantly, she’s cheerful and most helpful. She told us that the Bruschetta appetizer was really special. It’s made with fresh tomatoes, red onions, basil, and Kalamata olives topped with aged Parmesan cheese and served on toasted garlic bread. Susan ordered that immediately. I hesitated over crab dip or hummus, and finally decided to have the hummus. Done right this dish is one of my favorite appetizers, and S.O.B.’s version lived up to expectations. Garlicky and smooth, this homemade version tops any I’ve ever made at home, and was enhanced by a colorful array of fresh vegetables and multi-colored tortilla chips.

Entrees cover a lot of ground in their variety. Italian meatloaf, stuffed with roasted red peppers and provolone cheese sided with mac’n’ cheese and fresh vegetables, sounded really appealing to me, but I’m going to save that for a return trip when the temperature drops a little. I asked Brew what she liked and she raved about the Seared Scallops, and my decision was made. These big, juicy scallops are handled with a sure knowledge of how to cook seafood, and Lion Gardner struts his stuff with these. Formerly a chef at Eden and Fins, Lion brings expertise to his new venture with Tom at S.O.B.’s.

I really thought that Susan would order the Cobb Salad, but she surprised me and asked for the Grilled Shrimp. What a wonderful choice she made. Perfectly grilled shrimp on skewers sat atop a spicy, tasty mound of Southwestern Black Beans and Rice, with fat chunks of Chorizo Sausage adding additional zip to the dish.

Two things to bear in mind: prices here are among the lowest I’ve ever seen for a really good meal at the beach, and the portions are generous. Bring a big appetite, and save room for, what else?, dessert. You’ll have a choice of Key Lime pie or a homemade brownie. Susan and I decided to split a brownie. We’ve had them here before and know how delicious they are and also know that the portion is big. No disappointments here —the brownie is heavenly and arrives warm and topped with whipped cream. A great ending to a great meal.

When S.O.B. first opened, the business was primarily lunch service with the trademark Sandwiches On the Beach. That part of the business remains in place with Tom standing by to deliver your lunch order direct to you on his scooter anywhere from North Shores to Chesapeake Street and anywhere in between. He has racked up 10,500 miles on the scooter in just four years, and the most distance the scooter travels is about three miles! Deliveries are from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

The lunch menu is still a great combination of specialty sandwiches and fresh made salads. I should also mention that you can order from the lunch menu at dinner as well as mid-day. Outside, inside, at home or on the beach, S.O.B.’s Deli has always been a special treat, and it just keeps getting bigger and better!