EDEN: A Garden of Delights
The building that used to be a pizza place at 23 Baltimore Avenue, has
undergone a miraculous transformation under the guidance of owner Rob
Stitt. It is now a first-rate restaurant with much to offer visually and
victually. Our server, John, seated us in one of six comfortable booths,
each with its own smoke colored gossamer curtain that could be drawn for
those private moments. The whole interior is airy and soothing with a
skylighted atrium—just the right thing after a day on the beach. Soft
blue walls and some of brick combine with the light-wood and brick floors
to provide an atmosphere that is elegant and relaxing. There’s a special
nook near that bar that is perfect for a wind-down and cocktail before
dinner.
John handed us a wine list that would make an oenophile weep with joy.
It’s extensive and well thought out. There are numerous choices of wine
by the glass, half-bottles, and, if you’re really thirsty, a gargantuan
five-liter of red wine from Spain. As great as the wine list was, Susan
and I opted for cocktails. The Mojitini (rum, lime juice, mint and cane
sugar) more than satisfied my latest passion for this drink. Susan
ventured out even further and ordered Sex on a Lychee. As kinky as it
might have sounded, it was truly fantastic: Mikune "Root of Innocence
Sake" and lychee nectar, topped off with a fresh lychee. This drink
alone is incentive enough to go to Eden, but there are numerous others.
For instance, the list of starters featuring walnut mustard lobster
salad, margarita shrimp, and grilled Italian wild boar sausage are only a
few of the great choices. There’s always a Daily Sheet, which features
specials of the day, and we picked our appetizers from that. I ordered the
hand-rolled scallop spring roll with chipotle-mango glaze and soy
reduction. It was a new take on an old favorite. The scallops were plump
and added a distinctive flavor to each bite. Susan decided to try the
roasted plantain and sweet corn chowder with lump crab salsa. Spooning up
a bowlful of this soup is sheer delight. It’s a wonderful combination,
and one you shouldn’t miss.
Entrees offer a wide variety of choice. John said that their very best
seller is the "nearly famous" pan seared wasabi and sesame
crusted ahi tuna, with their "Mac and Cheese" running a close
second. From the Daily Sheet, Susan almost ordered the Black Buck Antelope
Tenderloin but decided on the Swordfish, which John told us had just been
caught locally the day before. It is oven roasted in a horseradish crust,
served resting on a bed of lobster mashed potatoes, and sided with skinny,
tasty green beans. The fish was a perfect silken slab of tastiness, and
the freshness was more than apparent. Mac and cheese for me, and whoa,
this is not your momma’s comfort food, but an outstanding dish in it’s
own category. This dish of home-made fresh egg tagliatelle pasta sauced
with artisanal goat cheese, parmesan, rosemary grilled chicken, baby
spinach, and roasted peppers is rich, rich, rich. The combined flavors are
amazing.
It’s hard to select dessert from a list that begs you to try each
one. I passed up the bread pudding of the day, and the Russian chocolate
cake, and had what is listed as Mimi’s Key Lime Pie. Turns out that Mimi
is Rob Stitt’s mother, and she does make a mean key lime. When made
right, this pie is right up there on the top dessert list, and Mimi’s is
perfection. Susan was not diasappointed with her cheesecake
chocolate-banana spring roll. She liked it so much that I almost had to
twist her arm to share some of it with me. Both desserts were lip-smackers
of the first order.
Small wonder that Delaware Today in its Best of Delaware 2004, named
Eden Best Restaurant in Sussex County; Best atmosphere; and Best wine
list. Honors well deserved. Pass the word: Eden’s an eater’s paradise—it
would be a sin to pass it up.