Post Labor Day I usually experience a mild September glow as the evenings
grow cooler, the days shorter, and the experiences of the summer fade into
the blur of personal history.
Howard and I thought that in the summer just
past, our first as full-time Florida residents, we’d miss a bit of the
fabled Florida heat and humidity by planning a mid-August trip to
Newfoundland, Labrador, and Nova Scotia. Certainly, this would be an area
where cool would prevail. So in addition to tee shirts and a few pair of
shorts, we packed sweaters, sweat shirts, and jeans to see us through. We
landed in Halifax, Nova Scotia, as the thermometer hit 95 (well, really it
hit 33 Celsius but that comes out in the 95 range Fahrenheit). The same day
Miami was 87. So much for careful planning! On the bright side, we came home
with a bunch of sweatshirts and jeans that were still clean.
The trip we were taking was a planned tour
with some 40 participants, a bus, a tour guide-the whole works. Howard and I
have done our share of independent travel, both separately and together, but
we’ve also discovered the advantages of listening to a guide rather than
trying to read and interpret multiple roadside signs. And it’s kind of
nice to arrive at the end of the day, hop through the shower while the bags
are being delivered, and head to a dinner that’s either pre-selected or
has limited choice-the standard on most group tours. While there’s a risk
of the “If it’s Tuesday, it’s Belgium” syndrome, in this case our
destinations were each distinctive. Tuesday was Cornerbrook, Newfoundland;
Wednesday was Plum Point; Thursday, L’Anse Au Clair. And with a 10-hour
crossing of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton on the “Bras d’Or” train, and
ferry boat excursions across the Cabot Straight and the Gulf of St.
Lawrence, it was a trip we’ll not soon forget.
On other tours we’ve taken, by sheer
statistical probability, we’ve met other gay or lesbian fellow travelers.
On this trip it quickly became obvious that, while there were a few singles
that teamed with us as the “odd man out” contingent, the score of
straights vs. gays was 40 to 2. Fortunately, all our fellow travelers,
despite a median age of near 80, were experienced travelers, cordial, and
some were genuinely friendly. One woman, however, had a loud penetrating
voice that caught up with you no matter where you sat in the bus and by the
end of the trip all 41 fellow travelers were totally familiar with her
arthritis problems and medications, her menopausal symptoms of days long
gone, and the struggles of selling real estate in a small Pennsylvania town.
The tour director, an energetic
smile-oriented Nova Scotia woman, was unfortunately vaccinated with a needle
from the old RCA Victor days and couldn’t shut up. The bus seemed to be
outfitted with “surround sound” and there was no way to escape her
unending supply of superfluous information. After all, who really cares
whether the tire shop on a nondescript corner in Plum Point, Newfoundland
(population 1,000), used to be a small shop, but now, since the sons of the
original owner are in charge, it has grown to its current impressive size.
To her credit, however, she was very knowledgeable, not only in the history
and culture of the area, but in the flora and fauna as well. We did see
moose and whales, bald eagles and puffins, plus new and interesting flowers
and berries galore. We also had our fill of cod and Atlantic salmon and
regretted that the lobster season was over.
But being the only two gays among 40
straights produced some interesting experiences. At the first night get
acquainted dinner, while most of my tablemates were in the buffet line, the
woman sitting across from me asked, “How did you three men get away from
your wives?” I responded quite honestly that I had never previously seen
the man on my left and I had no information on his marital status; but as
far as Howard and I were concerned, we live together in Ft. Lauderdale and
had no wives to bring. I could have been glib and said that I did bring my
wife along and he’s at the buffet table, but it didn’t seem the right
time to get into who’s top and who’s bottom, who’s butch and who’s
fem, and what part of each of us is wife or husband. I felt that for opening
night that would have been strictly TMI-too much information.
One morning I wore a new tee shirt with a
logo of “GLCC of South Florida” on the chest. I was immediately
questioned by a fellow traveler what the logo stood for, so I explained that
GLCC was the abbreviation for the Gay and Lesbian Community Center of South
Florida and that the shirt was a recognition of my volunteer service with
the organization. Later in the trip, the same questioner, a retired dentist
from California, asked why I’d selected Ft. Lauderdale for retirement. I
explained that Ft. Lauderdale has the largest concentration of gay seniors
on the East Coast and that there was a steady stream of friends from
Washington, DC, and Rehoboth Beach, DE, relocating to Ft. Lauderdale. That
makes it a comfortable place for us to live. There were no further
questions.
By the time we concluded the trip, Howard had
concluded that he’d had his fill of straights for the year. Which made me
question whether we, in our rainbow colored cocoon, have become heterophobic
or was our experience more like the person who speaks English as a second
language? We had to be careful in our speech and expression to fit the
hetero mode and after 15 days we were exhausted from the process.