EatingOUT: 

This is the second season for Gina and Spencer Derrickson’s delightful restaurant, Abstractions. They’ve enthusiastically and tastefully decorated the restaurant themselves. It’s a wonderful space to occupy while enjoying dinner.

Abstractions bills itself as a Sushi Bar and Restaurant and, naturally, much of the décor emphasizes the Orient. There are the shiny lacquer tables, shoji screens, slender, tapered towers of bubbling water, and fresh flowers and bamboo filled vases on each table. The walls, hung with art that is not representational but not mind numbing puzzles either, are the softest of blues. The back wall is a stunning wood panel that was created from cedar used as a cigar humidor and left by the space’s former incarnation—a tobacco shop.

As you enter Abstractions there is an inviting bar. From this bar comes martinis, martinis, and yet more martinis. We were given a list with no fewer than eighteen varieties, and that excludes the traditional. How does a Saketini, Sandcastle, Japanese Slipper, or Between the Sheets sound? Venture out and try a few. (You might want to do that on a Tini-Tuesday when martinis are five dollars.) Small wonder that Delaware Today named Abstractions the Best Martinis of 2004, and Best New Downstate Restaurant.

Rehoboth born and raised, owner Spencer Derrickson is at the helm, and is the number one sushi chef. Spencer has a wide and varied background in the restaurant business. It could be genetic. His grandfather, Earl, opened a restaurant in downtown Rehoboth in the 1930s called, simply, Derrickson’s. While in college, Spencer cooked in five-star castles in Ireland and also has cooked at various area restaurants before starting his own venture. He says he can hold his own with Wilmington-based Iron Chef Mickey Moto. There’s no doubt in my mind about this.

Our friendly and competent server, Jason, gave Susan and me a list of Abstraction’s specials along with the regular menu. There’s quite a variety of appetizers, many of which lean towards the Orient. Edamame (steamed soy beans), Beef Satay, and Sushi or Sashimi samplers. Seafood in the form of scallops, tuna and crab also make an appearance. My choice was the Tiger Prawn Gassis (Indian tiger prawns cooked in southwestern coconut curry, garnished with raita and served in a poppadum bowl). Bowl is right, it bowled me over. Four silky prawns with spicy flavors that just burst in your mouth. The crispy poppadum was just the right thing to take bites out of between the tastes of the shrimp. Besides, I love an edible bowl! Susan had the soup of the day, a hot and sour soup that was made of yellow tail tuna, salmon, carrots, onions, shitake mushrooms, red peppers, and that wonderful herb, cilantro. This soup was remarkable, hearty and rich with flavors, it did not spare the tender chunks of fish. Now that there is a tinge of coolness in the air, I couldn’t think of a better way to warm up than with this soup.

We knew we definitely wanted Sushi and turned to Jason for his advice. The menu features Sushi (slices of various raw fish on rectangles of rice), Sashimi (generally just slices of raw fish without rice), or Maki (raw fish embedded in rolls of seaweed and rice). We took the lazy way and left it up to Jason as to what combination we’d have. He delivered royally. We were treated to Unagi (eel) and wasabi flying fish roe as our Sushi choices, and our Maki was California rolls, Mexican rolls, and a fanciful Caterpillar roll. This was, for us, the star attraction. Our caterpillar inched its way across the plate in its avocado skin, cucumber antennae, and twinkling flying fish roe eyes. Humor and great taste—who could ask for more?

If you are not into Sushi, don’t despair. The entrée list has lots of goodies, such as Filet Mignon, Capelli D’Angelo Primavera, Chicken Breast Chardonnay, and many other dishes that would appeal to the non-raw fish crowd.

The list of Happy Endings is short, and, of course, sweet. Vanilla Crème Brûlée, Chocolate Cheesecake, Rum and Coconut Crème Brûlée with gingered bananas, or Mochi Cakes. What, you may ask, as I did, are Mochi Cakes? They are little balls of red bean, green tea, and mango, each individually wrapped in powdered sugar rice dough. They were as good as they were unusual, and amazingly light.