The Temperature Is Rising at Celsius!
On one of the first semi-gelid days of early November my guest Chef
Janelle and I entered the warm and colorful environs of Celsius on
Wilmington Avenue. Seated at a luxuriously circular divan, where a
collection of pictures, paintings, and tchotchkes surrounded and delighted
us, the only thing that seemed to be missing was extra friends and loved
ones to share the experience. The sounds of classic Sarah Vaughan playing
in the background created an elegant mood in the room, and even before the
server approached, I felt sheltered from the cold and excited to let
Celsius divulge its gourmet secrets with us.
Our server was as gracious as could be and was helpful in our search
for the appropriate commencing point. Tonight, two of the soup specials
piqued our interests. Being an avid mushroom gourmand, Janelle chose the
cream of mushroom soup. Unintentionally, yet as if perfectly timed, when
this soup arrived, opera music played from the sound system and—apropos
to the timing—the soup was almost regal in its display and worthy for
that of nobility. It was wonderful and spicy, with drops of green truffle
oil making delicate patterns on the soup’s surface. There was a subtle
Pernod flavoring that turned out to be patis liquor, which gave this soup
its crowning touch.
Not to be diminished, my onion soup with cream sauce was unlike any
soup of this kind that I have had before. Utilizing five different onions
(six if you count garlic) this masterful soup was adorned with oval
croutons and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. The sensation that I
experienced while dining on this delight was unutterable joy. The texture
held a heavenly balance, the flavor was neither too sweet nor overly salty
and to top it off the soup was loaded with onions—onions that were dead
set on conquering the earth (that or the palate of every lover of food
that dared to devour it).
Being so pleased by the soups, Janelle and I decided to split the
Coconut Battered Shrimp as an appetizer. A couple of moments later Mary Jo
arrived with two large skewers with a generous portion of golden joy on a
sleek black china plate. The shrimp were golden and crispy on the outside
and tender on the inside. The coconut, which usually can be quite cloying
when over employed with a dish like this, instead gave a subtle touch of
flavor to the dish. We were informed that the shrimp had been butterflied
so that they were evenly cooked. This was apparent and this labored
process proved more than successful. Accompanied by mango citrus sauce the
coconut battered shrimp was edible excellence!
For dinner I chose the Sesame Encrusted Rare Ahi Tuna with jasmine rice
and green curry sauce. Janelle chose the pasta special with spinach sauce,
shrimp and basil. When these two entrees arrived they were leaving behind
them a trail of olfactory delight. Placed in front of us they were two
models of perfection: the Ahi Tuna dish had a symmetry unlike any dish I’d
seen in a long time; both dishes had carrot garnishes that honestly, one
does not come across that often. The unbelievable dexterity of Celsius’s
kitchen was only the tip of the iceberg, for if we were entrapped by the
visual presentation we were to be ensnared by what we were about to eat.
The rare Ahi Tuna was a heavenly pink color; the sesame seeds gave just
the right crisp texture and flavoring to the tuna. The green curry sauce
held a delicate balance between sweet and spicy, awakening the senses in a
most beautifully nascent way. The plate was also festooned with crisp
zucchini and asparagus, which rested beside the hill of steaming jasmine
rice. A bite of the tender tuna with a swipe of the curry sauce was truly
a moment in the Valhalla of dining experiences. Janelle’s pasta dish was
fettuccini and shrimp seated regally in a pool of basil and spinach sauce.
The latter held a creamy consistency that was balanced by the mint aroma
of the basil. The shrimp much like the appetizers before them were juicy
and tender; each bite was sensational!
If dinner was amazing then the desserts went a step above amazing. The
smooth and creamy Thai Style Rice Pudding was topped with a caramelized
banana fritter dipped in chocolate. This delicacy was coupled with the
Mango and Strawberry Charlotte Cake, and soaked with fruit syrup much like
a French savarin cake. The fruit layers atop the syrup were moist yet
light and demure. Janelle remarked that she, "could not say
enough" and that these were some of the most impressive deserts she
has had in a long time.
This extraordinary coda to one of the most memorable meals of the
season was a testament to the artistic powers that be at Celsius. One
cannot escape the artistry, passion, skill and creativity that go into
every morsel of food that they make and present. Do your palate a favor
and treat it well. Visit Celsius and allow them to alter and titillate
your senses.
Celsius, 50-C Wilmington Avenue, is open year-round. Call
302-227-5767 for reservations.