LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth |
EatingOUT: Summertime on the Pack Porch |
by Marion McGrath |
The Back Porch Caf is tucked snugly away down a corridor right off of Rehoboth Avenue (number 59). You might have to double back to find the entrance, but it's more than worth the extra few steps. Being set back provides an environment that is free of traffic and pedestrian noise. Once inside you'll notice a sort of Key West ambience. There's a big bar that just begs you to stop for a Happy Hour drink. The main room is invitingly pleasant with soft yellow walls and wood paneling, brightened by a skylight. Yes, there is a back porch, or deck, that has two levels and a tented cover that comes out on rainy days. A smaller dining room off of the deck is a bit more private, or you can ask to be seated in the room that sports the bar. Regardless of where you sit, you're in for a treat.
Our server, Spike, presented Susan and me with a sheet of daily specials that made us realize that we would have to make some deliciously difficult decisions. This is a place where you could make a tasty meal out of two or three appetizers. Passing up Spring Pea and Lobster Ravioli, Sauted Sweetbreads with fava beans, asparagus and morels, I zeroed in on the Backfin Crab Mousse Galette. Susan waffled between the soup of the day, a Shellfish Cucumber Vichyssoise and the Poached Shrimp and Avocado Salad in Roasted Chayote then decided on the Grilled Diver Scallops. The Crab Galette was spectacular. It was abundant with jumbo lump crabmeat, held together with a shrimp mousse and presented on a platform of crisp asparagus surrounded by blood orange vinaigrette. The scallops were kissed by the grill and done to succulent perfection. The accompanying black bean puree, mango coulis and tomato tartare afforded a nice contrast of sweet and robust tastes. Main course selections offer choices that show there is a confident chef in the kitchen. The side dishes alone are so out of the ordinary that your tongue tingles in anticipation. Thyme Roasted Guinea Hen with sweet potato croquette and sauted fiddlehead ferns; Grilled Loin of Domestic Lamb offers goat cheese gnocchi, black olive, tomato and fava beans; Grilled Pork Rib Chop with carrot butternut squash rappe, apple arancini, green curry sauce. Could you possibly go wrong with Wild Mushroom and Butternut Squash Risotto Manicotti sided with fresh mozzarella and vegetable jus? There is a wonderful selection of wine by the glass as well as bottles that should appeal to everyone. We went with our server's suggestions. I enjoyed Oven Roasted Halibut swimming in a wonderfully fresh corn, blueberry and basil relish that had a nice flavorful bite to it, and was topped off with a mound of crispy angel hair onions. The halibut was moist and layered with a wonderful combination of flavors. Thumper lovers stop reading here! Susan tucked into a Braised Rabbit Jambonette that was a subtle contrast of textures and flavor showing a skilled, sure hand in the cooking. She said it tasted like, no, not chicken, but wonderfully tender rabbit. Served with it was mascarpone polenta spiked with black olives and finished off with mushrooms and aromatic vegetables. The word savory doesn't do it justice. Dessert? Of course! When there is bread pudding on a menu my decision is an easy one and the raspberry bread pudding with lemon sauce is a delight. The bread was light and fluffy and studded with plenty of fresh raspberries. The warm lemon sauce and tartness of the berries were nice offsets to the sweetness of the pudding. The ginger lover in Susan offered her a tough choice between Ginger Crme Brulee and the intriguing Banana Espresso Torte. The torte won and left no room for regrets. Its cake-like consistency was filled with the sweetness of fresh bananas coupled with bursts of espresso flavor, all iced over with a creamy icing and topped with a ripe red strawberry. According to owner Keith Fitzgerald the 29-year-old Back Porch Caf is now the oldest restaurant in Rehoboth and has been at the same continuous location for all 29 years. You might want to stop in for jazz on Friday nights or listen to local music on Sunday evenings. Whenever you go, be prepared for a wonderful meal. The Back Porch Caf, 59 Rehoboth Avenue, is open for lunch and dinner daily. For reservations, call 302-227-3674. |
LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth, Vol. 13, No. 10, July 25, 2003 |