LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth |
The Gay Gourmet |
by Patrick Evans-Hylton |
THE AGE OF ASPARAGUS Well Gladys, its springtime and you know what that means. Trips to the garden center to have those hunky boys load top soil in your car... picking just the right sunbonnet to wear outside when youre weeding your tomatoes... flipping through those catalogs for heirloom seeds that Martha Stewart sings high praises about. But another harbinger of spring is just around the corner in the local grocery storesasparagus. Delightfully elegant and wonderful hot or cold, there are many myths and legends about this stalky vegetable. Much has been reported about its virtues as an aphrodisiac because of its phallic shape (not that the Gay Gourmet needs aphrodisiacs mind you,) but dont throw away your Viagra yet, Sweetcakes... thats just an old wives tale. Another myth is that asparagus is difficult to prepare. Well, poo-poo that idea, asparagus is almost as simple as boiling water. You can boil water, cant you Blanche? Well explore some of the basics. GET THE BEST SPEAR FOR YOUR BUCK Asparagus is a relative of the lily family, and the sweet and tender spear is the coveted edible part. Some asparagus is thin, other is thick, but regardless of your preference, make sure the spear is as fresh as possible, and is not thick and woody. Whether you pick them long and thin or short and thick, pick them a uniform size so they will cook evenly. Sounds kinky, doesnt it? The vegetable comes in purple and white, although people are most familiar with the green variety. All asparagus is capped off with a tightly closed tip. Asparagus tips should be firmly closed, and smell fresh. The base should be firm, but not rigid. You know what to do with those limp, sickly looking spearstoss em. Its best to buy asparagus the day you plan to use them, but thats not always possible. Refrigerate the asparagus as soon as you get home, and it should keep up to four days. Dont wash, cut, or otherwise manhandle until you are ready for their use. ASPARAGUS 101 1. Start with a couple of pounds of asparagus. Snap off tough endsthe asparagus should naturally break above any woody or tough areas which, if not inedible, would be unpleasant for your guests to gnaw on. 2. Wash your spears under gently running water. Thats it, up and down, oh yeah.... oh, sorry. Anyway, wash them, cut off any scales, and depending on what you want, leave them whole or cut them into slices. 3. Bring a saucepan full of water to a boil and add your asparagus. Cover the saucepan. Cook 6 - 8 minutes or until al dente. If you prefer to steam the vegetable, cook covered on a steam rack above boiling water for up to 12 minutes. Whatever you do, dont overcook, or youll have green mush on your hands that looks like something from The Exorcist. 4. Drain water, and serve according to some of the suggestions below. NOW WHAT DO I DO WITH IT? Serve asparagus with hollandaise sauce, vinaigrette, with freshly squeezed lemon juice, cheese sauce, or a sprinkling of fresh dill. Top with just a little butter and salt. Toss asparagus pieces in pasta, or a salad. Place whole spears across the tops of salads. Stir into soups or chowders. Remember, asparagus is a wonderfully flavorful vegetable - dont do anything to overpower the taste. FAUX HOLLANDAISE SAUCE FOR ASPARAGUS Heat 1/4 pound butter in a sauce pan until it begins to bubble, but is not browning. In a blender, add 3 egg yolks, 2 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon coarse salt, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Blend yolk mixture on low, slowly drizzling melted butter into the blender. On medium, mix for about 20 seconds, and stop once the sauce is smooth and thick. Serve immediately. A VERY GOOD VINAIGRETTE FOR ASPARAGUS In a mixing bowl, combine 2 tablespoons good-quality balsamic vinegar and 2 tablespoons dijon mustardwhisk to incorporate. Drizzle in, a little at a time, 6 tablespoons extra- virgin olive oil and whisk vigorously. Add 1 teaspoon minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste, and whisk to incorporate. ASK THE GAY GOURMET Dear GG, Who is this Al Dente person? Is he related to Al Nino? Does he have his own cooking show on the Food Network? Ive seen his name in recipes, but Ive never been able to find one of his cookbooks at Borders. Down and Out in Dover Dear Down Al dente is actually the term used to describe the stage in which a food is cooked. In Italian, the phrase literally means "to the tooth," referring to a vegetable or pasta being cooked crisp- tender. GG Chef Patrick, The Gay Gourmet, is a caterer, food writer, and member of the American Culinary Federation. Submit any questions, comments or recipes to share in care of LETTERS. or e-mail, AskChefPat@aol.com. |
LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth, Vol. 9, No. 3, April 9, 1999 |