LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth |
Eating OUT - Heaven is Sinfully Good! |
by Barry Becker |
Lately, several of you dear readers have been pulling me aside and whispering in my ear, "What was that restaurant really like?" Puzzled, I ask "Did you read my review in Letters?" "Well, yes," always comes the sheepish response, "but what was it really like?" as if Im not telling the truth. Imagine! Well, dear, dear readers, there is no sinister cover-up going on in these columns. The Rehoboth area has probably the highest concentration of over-the-top restaurants in the Mid- Atlantic, and I am merely letting you in on the exciting news, restaurant by restaurant, pound by pound. So, here is the truth (really!) about another fabulous area restaurant, TASTE OF HEAVEN, which is at 107 Savannah Road in Lewes, right at the intersection of Second St. Taste of Heaven is a wonderfully intimate space that seats about 30. Blue is the key word here. The walls and ceiling are painted a deep sky blue, with clouds all over them so that you feel like youre in the heavens. Gold-framed mirrors on the walls open up the space and give some formality to the playfulness of the sky motif. There are flowers in blue vases on the tables, even blue martinis being served in perfectly chilled glasses (the Billys Blue Heaven Martini, from a creative menu of martinis). Background music flows from jazz to Sinatra, which adds a nice ambiance. Outside seating on the porch overlooks the peaceful Japanese garden and pond, as well as the flower and herb bed. Susan was our wonderful and friendly waitress, and she suggested some great appetizers to start. We tried the Crispy Jumbo Wonton of Lobster and Lump Blue Crab with an Orange Soy Glaze and Oriental Mustard. Jumbo was certainly the right word; the wonton had a perfect crispness holding huge chunks of lobster and crab, and the plate was decorated with the glaze and mustard and fresh cilantro. This was a perfect marriage of flavors and textures. We also had The Locally Famous Brandy and Green Peppercorn Pte with Red Onions, Cornichons and Coarse Mustard with French Bread which was served with superbly fresh sprigs of thyme picked right from the garden, which gave the duck and pork an amazing flavor. Bill Raney, owner and chef, is famous for his variety and fabulousness of pts, and this was one reason why. Choosing an entree off this incredible menu was very difficult, and it is clear we will have to come back and sample the rest at a later date. The menu included, on this night (the menu changes frequently, so pay attention!) Black Sesame & Peanut Crusted Tuna Steak, Lavender & Garlic encrusted Filet Mignon, Wild Mushroom Ravioli, and Crispy Seared Thai Red Snapper. But we finally chose, and chose well. The Duo of New Zealand Baby Lamb Rack Chops and Crispy Mapleleaf Duck Breast with Port Wine Raspberry Red Onion Glaze, Montachet Whipped Sweet Potatoes and Roasted Vegetables was beyond description, but somehow I have to try to do it justice with words. I dont know where to even begin describing this plate. Each part of it is worth a paragraph on its own. Well, the duck was so tender it took no pressure from my fork to cut it, and with the red onion glaze it was beyond divine, juicy and, well, ducky. Was it possible for meat to be more tender and flavorful? I didnt think so, until I tried the baby lamb chops. I let a piece of it just sit on my tongue, and it was true, it almost melted sitting there, rich and flavorful. Where does Bill find meat this tender? The light whipped sweet potatoes were infused with cumin, which was wonderful, and the vegetables! A melange of baby carrots, zucchini and squash are made fresh with each order, flash sauted in an orange garlic butter with tarragon so that the carrots are crispy on the outside, exploding with flavor. Our second choice of entree was equally impressive, a grilled fillet of salmon cut fresh to order, served atop a bed of incredible Southwestern Rice with Black Beans and Toasted Corn and Lime, with spears of fresh, perfect asparagus. As if that wasnt wonderful enough, a soft shell crab was perched atop the salmon, crunchy and marvelous and spicy. The salmon was moist, flavorful and fabulous, and with a Chipotle Pepper Cream Sauce over it, which was divine, this is a meal to savor and enjoy. It will make you wish softshells were around all year. For dessert we tried the Triple Layer Mocha Chocolate Cake, just sinful with its layers of dark cake and kahlua mousse, and the Very Berry tart, a dense French pastry with several kinds of berries, served with a raspberry melba sauce and whipped cream, which was delightful. With coffee, it was a great way to end an incredible culinary experience. Bill, you can cook for me any time! Monday is Bistro night, with a continental Italian/ French flair, where portions are slightly smaller and prices are set to match. It is geared to the areas restaurant and bar employees, who receive 10% off their tab, but all are welcome to enjoy this different and delicious sounding menu. The restaurant is closed Tuesday and Wednesday. From the cozy dining room to the outdoor garden, from the ambiance to the remarkable, creative, fresh and mouth watering food, Taste of Heaven is divine in every way. Make sure Taste of Heaven is on your list of must-eat-at area restaurants. A Taste of Heaven, located at 107 Savannah Road in historic Lewes, is open for lunch and dinner. Call 302-644-1992 for reservations. |
LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth, Vol. 9, No. 7, June 18, 1999 |