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May 21, 2010 - CAMP Stories by Rich Barnett

Desperately Seeking Sorrel

Every spring, the New York Times showcases a single sorrel recipe. They don’t draw attention to it, and most people probably don’t give it much thought. But for the sorrel aficionados out there, it’s the equivalent of the announcement of the Academy Award nominees or the release of college football’s first BCS rankings. It is anticipated.

This year’s recipe was for poached eggs in a buttery sorrel sauce. Last year was a sorrel and stinging nettle soup. Naturally, the recipe triggers a run on sorrel, which makes it even more difficult than it usually is to find some.

I couldn’t get any last season. Not at the Giant. Not at the Rehoboth Farmer’s Market. Not even from Whole Foods in Washington. So when I found myself in Manhattan recently on a Wednesday afternoon and with an hour to kill before my next meeting, of course, I made a beeline to the Union Square Green Market at Broadway between 14th and 17th Streets

There were cartons of fresh fava beans and containers of fresh cow’s milk. Honey to eat. Bees wax to burn. Apple wine and apple cider. And because it’s springtime, bountiful greens.  Ramps, yes, but sorrel, no.

I was about to give up, when I spotted a fuzzy young farmer at a tiny organic cheese and herb stall. He was staring intently at me, as if he could sense my desire. I approached cautiously, not wanting to get my hopes up, and asked him if I could see it. With a knowing grin, he hauled it out.

“You like it,” he asked? What wasn’t to like? “It’s big, right?” It was indeed an impressive specimen, I had to say, and a fancy French variety—Blonde de Lyon, to be precise. My mouth was watering. The French, you see, are responsible for bringing sorrel under cultivation to improve the quality and the flavor of the leaves. Until the late 1600s, it was gathered from the wild. Most markets carry only the common type, if they carry it at all. This was indeed a fortunate find.

I purchased the only one he had left, which I then transported around for the rest of the day, to meetings, to a cocktail party, and then back to Washington on the train. It’s currently sitting in a big terra cotta pot in my back yard on Columbia Avenue in Rehoboth Beach.

By now, you may have probably surmised that sorrel is a delightful potherb and one of spring and summer’s most special greens. If you haven’t heard much about it, well, that’s because Americans tend not to like its somewhat sour, acidic taste.

The plant’s distinctive taste is due to oxalic acid, which is, in fact, a poison. In small quantities, sorrel is harmless. In large quantities, it can be fatal. But, if you open your mouth and your mind to it you’ll find sorrel to be an adventuresome and tangy taste sensation that can take your taste buds through all of the following: limes, lemons, spinach, rhubarb, cabbage and amaranth.

What other green can do all that?

Personally, I think sorrel is best enjoyed as a chilled soup on an exceptionally hot day and served with a French white wine, preferably a Sancerre or a Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley. While there are many recipes for sorrel soup, I like Julia Child’s the best. It pays proper homage to the leafy vegetable.

One final note: to cultivate a taste for sorrel is a commitment. You must first find it. And then you must buy it. In a gourmet market, you can expect to pay up to $6 a bunch. For a decent sorrel soup, you’ll need about 5 bunches, plus heavy cream, eggs, and chicken stock. Don’t worry that it costs more than lobster bisque. A thirty-dollar soup is a small price to pay for a taste that is like no other.

French gourmet and culinary writer Francis Amunategui once declared sorrel soup rich enough for the governor of the Bank of France. How appropriate is that? You’d have to have access to all the franks of the realm to really indulge your taste for it.
Bon appetit.

Rich Barnett, an unabashed gay, liberal, tree-hugging, whiskey-drinking, Rehoboth cottage-owning story-teller, is working on a book and can be reached at Greenbarn@aol.com.

‹ May 21, 2010 - Booked Solid by Terri Schlichenmeyer up May 21, 2010 - High CAMP by Brent Mundt ›

Past Issues

Issues Index

  • February 5, 2010 - Issue Index
  • March 12, 2010 - Issue Index
  • April 9, 2010 - Issue Index
  • May 7, 2010 - Issue Index
  • May 21, 2010 - Issue Index
    • May 21, 2010 - Acknowledgments
    • May 21, 2010 - The Way I See It by Steve Elkins
    • May 21, 2010 - In Brief
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP Matters by Murray Archibald
    • May 21, 2010 - Volunteer Thank You
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMPout by Fay Jacobs
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP Programs
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP Talk by Bill Sievert
    • May 21, 2010 - Amazon Trail by Lee Lynch
    • May 21, 2010 - Before the Beach by Bob Yesbek
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP is Comcastic!
    • May 21, 2010 - Booked Solid by Terri Schlichenmeyer
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP Stories by Rich Barnett
    • May 21, 2010 - High CAMP by Brent Mundt
    • May 21, 2010 - Gay n' Gray By John Siegfried
    • May 21, 2010 - It's the Law by Renna Van Oot, Esq.
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP Volunteer Spotlight by Chris Beagle
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP Money by Chris Beagle
    • May 21, 2010 - Ask the Doctor by Michael J. Hurd, Ph.D.
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMPshots Gallery Index
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP Arts by Doug Yetter
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMPdates
    • May 21, 2010 - Weekend Beach Bum by Eric Morrison
    • May 21, 2010 - The Out Field by Dan Woog
    • May 21, 2010 - CAMP Fitness by Rick Moore
  • June 4, 2010 - Issue Index
  • June 18, 2010 - Issue Index
  • July 2, 2010 - Issue Index
  • July 16, 2010 - Issue Index
  • July 30, 2010 - Issue Index
  • August 13, 2010 - Issue Index
  • August 27, 2010 - Issue Index
  • September 17, 2010 - Issue Index
  • October 15, 2010 - Issue Index
  • November 19, 2010 - Issue Index

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