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May 18, 2018 - Eating Out by Fay Jacobs

Houston-White Co.

REHOBOTH’S OLDEST, YOUNG BUSINESS

Houston-White SignageYes, there was a Houston-White Co. Well, there IS a Houston-White Co. and it’s a brand new, and classically designed, steakhouse on Rehoboth Avenue. But in fact, the name of the restaurant is shared with a more than 100-year old Delaware lumber mill company, technically still in business, now as the restaurant bearing its name.

As owner Megan Kee explains it, the restaurant is using her family’s century-old business license, originally written in calligraphy and having one of the lowest business license numbers in the state.

So this new steakhouse is firmly rooted in Delaware and offering a legendary steakhouse experience. And it’s really, really beautifully designed and offering exquisite dining.

The restaurant interior is forest green walls with wood trim, reminiscent of the great New York City steakhouses of my youth. The fixtures have a nautical flair, having come from an ocean liner, and the combination is stunning. It’s also intriguing that as you dine you can see into the kitchen, appointed with equipment that is as decorative as it is useful.

With a friendly welcome to all patrons and a professional waitstaff, this decidedly white-tablecloth restaurant promises—and delivers—a marvelous meal.

We began dinner by splitting a Caesar salad featuring white anchovies and a generous portion of cheese. We couldn’t believe the portions in front of us was a split until we saw a waiter pass by with a mountainous full portion.

We also sampled the short rib stroganoff, with Pennsylvania Dutch noodles and tender beef drenched in the slight sweetness of Harvey’s Bristol Cream and complemented by a variety of fresh mushrooms in the cream sauce. Delicious.

Of course, we couldn’t wait to taste a steak house entrée and chose the Prime Bone-in Filet, prepared to a perfect medium rare (warm red center) and, forgive the cliché but it was melt-in-your-mouth flawless. We had the potato skins served with horseradish cream sauce as an accompaniment—the skins were thin, crispy slices, not your usual bar-food one-eighth of a potato slab, and they were served with a creamy horseradish sauce perfect on the potatoes or the steak.

And while beef’s the steak house calling card, we heard that the cast-iron pan-fried chicken, based on an old family recipe, should be sampled as well. The Southern, shake-in-a-bag-to-coat, then lightly fried chicken harkens back to traditional Maryland-Delaware fare. The delicious entrée comes with sweet and spicy baked beans and delightfully moist cornbread.

As for beverages, our entrees were paired with two excellent red wines. I had the Decoy Cabernet, which was hearty and a great complement to the filet, while my spouse sampled the Torrebrunna Sangiovese from Tuscany—a popular wine of the region, with a tart cherry taste. Really delicious.

By this time, of course, there were doggy bags involved, as we proclaimed not to be able to have one more bite. But alas, Megan told us about the berry cheesecake. Now this New Yorker knows her cheesecake. After one forkful of the sweet, rich dessert, I proclaimed it totally authentic. Only then did I find out that the chef had a great deal of experience at one of New York’s premier cheesecake havens. Try it!

With strains of “As Time Goes By” from Casablanca softly filtering through the restaurant, plus the fine meal and lovely ambiance, it was a classic steakhouse experience. And yes, that goes for the prices as well. It’s high end and appropriately so.

This kind of classic cuisine and traditional atmosphere are the hallmarks of Megan Kee’s restaurants, Fable on Baltimore Avenue for authentic French dining and now Houston-White Co. for a faithful take on a timeless steakhouse.

With the summer crowds on their way, right now might be the perfect time to get a sneak peek at Rehoboth’s newest culinary offering with the oldest company name in town.▼

Houston-White Kitchen

‹ May 18, 2018 - Hear Me Out by Chris Azzopardi up May 18, 2018 - Around Town by Sondra N. Arkin ›

Past Issues

Issues Index

  • November 16, 2018 - Issue Index
  • October 19, 2018 - Issue Index
  • September 21, 2018 - Issue Index
  • August 24, 2018 - Issue Index
  • August 10, 2018 - Issue Index
  • July 27, 2018 - Issue Index
  • July 13, 2018 - Issue Index
  • June 29, 2018 - Issue Index
  • June 15, 2018 - Issue Index
  • June 1, 2018 - Issue Index
  • May 18, 2018 - Issue Index
    • May 18, 2018 - Cover-to-cover with ISSUU
    • May 18, 2018 - The Way I See It by Murray Archibald
    • May 18, 2018 - Speak Out - Letters to Letters
    • May 18, 2018 - In Brief
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMPmatters by Murray Archibald
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMP Out by Fay Jacobs
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMP Feature by Chris Azzopardi
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMP Stories by Rich Barnett
    • May 18, 2018 - Millennial Times by James Adams Smith
    • May 18, 2018 - President's View by Chris Beagle
    • May 18, 2018 - Straight Talk by David Garrett
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMP Critters
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMP Rehoboth Membership 2018 by Glen Pruitt
    • May 18, 2018 - View Point by Richard Rosendall
    • May 18, 2018 - Volunteer Spotlight - Patricia and Russell Stiles
    • May 18, 2018 - Volunteer Thank You
    • May 18, 2018 - Out and Proud by Stefani Deoul
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMPshots Gallery 1
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMPshots Gallery 2
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMPshots Gallery 3
    • May 18, 2018 - Women's FEST Sports Results
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMP Cheers!
    • May 18, 2018 - Hear Me Out by Chris Azzopardi
    • May 18, 2018 - Eating Out by Fay Jacobs
    • May 18, 2018 - Around Town by Sondra N. Arkin
    • May 18, 2018 - It's My Life by Michael Thomas Ford
    • May 18, 2018 - Out & About by Eric C. Peterson
    • May 18, 2018 - How Come It’s Poodle Beach?
    • May 18, 2018 - Spotlight on the Arts by Leslie Sinclair
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMP Arts by Doug Yetter
    • May 18, 2018 - Booked Solid by Terri Schlichenmeyer
    • May 18, 2018 - CAMP Dates
  • May 4, 2018 - Issue Index
  • April 6, 2018 - Issue Index
  • March 9, 2018 - Issue Index
  • January 26, 2018 - Issue Index

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