For readers who may have noticed that LETTERS reporter Barry Becker had an opportunity to enjoy an exquisite culinary experience at Andiamo Ristorante a few weeks ago thanks to my busy schedule, please know that his witty desire to make me Restaurant Critic Emeritus has failed.
Shes back and hungrier than ever.
So when I found two dozen people happily loitering in The Back Porchs entryway hoping theyd open a few minutes early for brunch I knew it was a good sign. When the first thing placed on our table was a basket with freshly baked chocolate bread in it, I was sure we were in the right place for a lazy Sunday morning.
The Back Porch Caf. Visit their website at http://www.enrapt.com/backporch.
While The Back Porch brunch menu is reasonable enough so that a special occasion is not required, this brunch was special for us. We were joined by the trio of performers from our production of Sondheims Broadway which had closed the previous nightafter packing up our sound equipment until 1 a.m. there was no time left for a cast party, so we decided on brunch instead.
While Bonnie and I have enjoyed dinner at The Back Porch many times over the years (its an anniversary tradition in my household), this was our first brunch experience. And from the moment Keith showed us to our table, and superstar server Sue Porter showed up, the adventure began.
First, Sue approached the table, and said "Scones?" Did she have to ask? We sampled the freshly baked pastry served with mascarpone cheese as we studied the days menu and sipped Mimosas. So far, a perfect Sunday morning.
Since there were five of us, we didnt agonize too much over just the right choice since thats what friends are for: sampling everything!
Among our selections were herbed scrambled eggs with a portion of hearty sausage rivaling any gourmet burger youve ever enjoyed, accompanied by a mashed potato pancakedivine!; delicious shirred eggs with grilled Canadian bacon; torte Milanese, with delicate layers of ham, eggs, provolone cheese, roasted peppers and spinach, in an oh-so-light puffed pastry (all the traditional breakfast things arranged artistically); and a sauted pear and saga blue cheese omelette.
In fact, as we wrestled the remarkable pear and blue cheese omelette away from the actor whod ordered it and sent it around the table, at least one of us speculated about poor Barry and Konrad, home eating Oliver Twists gruel.
Cheers to the chef for that pear omeletteits one of those dishes that manages to be strikingly unique and exquisitely tasty at the same time.
Accompaniments included pesto and bread crumb topped tomatoesa treat by themselves.
While our 11 a.m. reservation had us ordering from the "Eggs" section of the menu, the "Not Eggs" section was equally fascinatingand for a later afternoon brunch the menu offered pan-fried fishcakes Louis, linguini Bolognese with sauted chicken livers and fresh sage, sauted soft shell crabs, corn and lima bean chowder, and lamb croquettes. We will return!
As for the service, its always attentive, well-timed and
sophisticated at The Back Porch Cafbut having Sue as our server also makes it just plain fun. She can size up her "audience" and play it just right. She took a cue from our table of theatre folk and traded one-liners with us, then had us laughing at her cries of "Incoming!!!" as she delivered the piping hot plates to the table. But then Sue is equally at home at dinner hour preparing Irish coffee table side, offering knowledgeable menu suggestions and treating everyone like royalty. Shes my parents favorite server too.
And speaking of the dinner hour, The Back Porch is fine dining at its finest. While the menu changes frequently to reflect seasonal ingredients and the kitchens creativity, there are two things you should experience at first opportunity: remarkable lamb chops and devastatingly addictive creme brulee.
The Back Porch does the beach dining balancing act perfectly. Its a place where you really are comfortable in everything from shorts to semi-formals, offering a relaxed yet romantic decor suitable to being all things to all beach goers.
Hey, maybe Barry and I could team up to be the Siskel and Ebert of culinary criticism. Im sure wed give The Back Porch a rousing two spoons up.
Although it was such a shame Barry had to be behind that cash register at work while I was out enjoying brunch. But these things happen...
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9/19/97 Issue. Copyright 1997 by CAMP Rehoboth, Inc. All rights reserved.