LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth |
A Yummy Review |
by Fay Jacobs (with Barry Becker)...or... by Barry Becker (with Fay Jacobs) |
Note from Fay Jacobs: After taking some literary abuse from LETTERS correspondent Barry Becker, I am fighting back. It seems that every time my back is turned, Barry weasels his way into one of my reviewing jobs. This last time, as I vacationed in France, he waxed unpoetic that Id eat my way through the continent and come home wearing a mumu (when is the last time you heard that word!) and want to give up my restaurant reviewing job. Pardon the pun, but fat chance. For the record, our passion for walking tours managed to assuage the onslaught of butter and croissants and we walked off just about everything we ate (okay, okay, maybe the last Napoleon or Creme Brulee is still with me). But as for Barrys Freudian case of Restaurant Envy, something just had to be done. So, I invited Barry and Konrad to join me and Bonnie last Sunday night to review one of Rehoboths newest hot spots. Following is our collaboration! Barry beckers turn: I cant say I was surprised to find the over-anxious but otherwise mumu-less Fay already having a cocktail in the airy tropical-inspired bar with her partner Bonnie and my partner Konrad when I arrived at Yum Yum. I was surprised, however, that Fay was amused that I brought a discreet yet tasteful notebook with me in which to take fabulous notes on what I expected to be fabulous food. After all, I had brunch next to Phyllis Richman once at Gabriel in Washington, and in addition to the copious amounts of food that woman can put away, SHE had a notebook. Editors note: And all together now... Our quartet was greeted at Yum Yum by the gracious Alison Blyth, a partner in the new venture, and one of the originators of La La Land. She sat us on the tree-lined patio near the decorative pond, where we could get a hint of the mouth watering scents wafting from the kitchen. Yum Yum is designed as a Pan-Asian bistro, (Pan, as in food from all over Asia) and encourages informal dining and sharing of food at the table so you can explore the wide range of delicacies. The menu is divided into Small Plates ($4.50 - $10.50) and Large Plates ($11.50 - $18.50). The restaurant is deceptively large, with a more formal look to the seating inside, a few tables on a front veranda, patio dining and another room at the rear of the property. We began with the Yum Yum Martini, its signature cocktailinstead of vermouth it features an infusion of lemongrass and ginger, and is served with a bright orange kumquat on the oversized glass. As even the non-Martini lovers among us sipped and savored this glorious cocktail (which, by the way, The Washington Post raved about, too), our waitress, Penny, gave us a very educated run-down on the kind of food we were about to experience. She told us that the Yum Yum chefs, Coleen Donnelly and Deena Chafetz, made sure that the whole staff had an excellent working knowledge of the menu and its varying spice levels so diners could be guided to choices right for them. At our table, tastes ran from not too spicy (Fay), right up to get-the-fire-hose (Konrad) with Bonnie and Barry in between. Penny told us that contrary to what people might expect, more than half the menu features flavorful but non-spicy items. Of course, the other end of the scale is represented as well. Penny recommended that we start with some Fay dishes and work our way up to Konrad. Penny was exactly what an excellent wait person should be: personable, always attentive but never intrusive, and she knew her food and how each dish was prepared. Food is art at Yum Yum, with every dish exquisitely presented, with a melange of complimentary flavors and textures. We started with the scrumptious House Cured Thousand Flavor Salmon with Green Onion Pancakes, the salmon dotted with sesame seeds and topped with marinated baby red onions. Next, the small tower of Sashimi Tuna and Avocado Salad with Miso Sake dressing was, as Bonnie said, "to die for," a smooth, elegant blend of flavors that melted into our taste buds. Even if you dont like sushi or sashimi, you simply must try this. It will change your mind! The bamboo-steamed Shumai, shrimp and crab in darling little star-shaped dumplings with cilantro-soy sauce, were another "to die for" on the Bonnie-scale, with great flavors and texture. The Thai Crab Springroll with Avocado Lime Sauce and Flying Fish Roe was so fabulous that Bonnie abandoned her chopsticks for a fork, leaving Fay to remark, "These are to die for." Its a spring roll like none other, with creamy crab filling and an amazing sauce. Then came the Korean-Style Barbequed Spare Ribs, tender, succulent, tasty meat with no fat and no grease, that just melted in your mouth with a hint of the spice yet to come. The evenings special was halibut, served in a bamboo steamer with asparagus and drizzled hoison sauce. The fish was juicy, fresh, and fabulous. The Whole Crispy Game Hen, slow roasted and glazed with honey and served with a side of garlicy watercress and a spicy kumquat marmalade, was divine; the meat tender and juicy; the marmalade a glorious accompaniment. But then everything on each plate had much thought put into it, each flavor and texture blending exquisitely. Our next sampling began separating the girls from the real girls: a fabulous spicy Thai Green Curry Soup with sliced Chicken and Coconut Milk, and Kim Chee, Korean pickled cabbage with hot chilies. Konrad, who whips up a scalding Thai curry dish at least once a week at home, is used to powerful spices so he took the first plunge. Barry loved it, too. Bonnie and Fay? Well, lets just say they claimed the rest of the ribs and spring rolls, leaving the real men to the Kim Chee and Curry Soup. The Steamed Mussels in Spicy Coconut Red Curry Broth with carrot slices and cilantro looked so incredible, the girls didnt wait for the Spice Boys to sample first. Fay delicately ate a mussel plucked from the curry broth and then tried to cool off her palate with a swig of martini; Bonnies eyes rolled back just a little as she pointed to her tonsils. But incredibly, both women went back for more. Konrad and Barry spooned that fabulous curry sauce right up with each mussel, purring YUM! YUM! Next (I know, it sounds like we ate a lot....thats because we DID!) was salmon smoked in a wok with tea, sugar and rice, with a black vinegar glaze and stir fried vegetables, plus edible seaweed. The exquisite salmon was thick, moist and flavorful, and unlike "the kind of smoked salmon on any bagel!" announced Fay. We next ventured into the Big Heat zone with the Fiery Jungle Curry with Beef and Pungent Herbs and vegetables, a large bowl of beef strips and indeed very hot spices. We have to give Bonnie great credit for trying to keep up with Konrad and Barry, gallantly trying the jungle curry. As the boys went at it with gusto, Bonnie slid them the bowl of rice and wheezed "Have some rice. Youre gonna need it." For the record, Konrad and Barry thought it was fabulous! As we finally threw in the towel, Penny explained that Yum Yum has no dessert menu. At the end of the meal, diners are given a complimentary tasting of orange sorbet and a fortune cookie. Bonnies summed up our Yum Yum experience: "A good evening is one spent in good company," not to mention great food, fabulous atmosphere and something from Pan Asia for every pan-palate! We enjoyed meeting the Yum Yum partners, Alison Blyth, Steve Webster (you remember him from Coffee Mill) and Chefs Deena Chafetz and Coleen Donnelly. As for the battle of the restaurant reviewers, we certainly enjoyed our collaboration, and all agreed with Fays pronouncement that "Yum Yum does it right!" Its a restaurant thats fun, can compete anywhere, offers marvelous food, great value, impeccable, knowledgeable service, friendly and caring owners, and most importantly, something for everybodys taste. Its clear that Yum Yum cares about its customers, its menu and its service, and all we can say is Yum Yum!!! Yum Yum Pan Asian Bistro, 37 Wilmington Avenue, Rehoboth Beach, serves dinner and drinks from 6 p.m. every day but Tuesday. But remember, they dont take reservations, so get there early. |
LETTERS From CAMP Rehoboth, Vol. 8, No. 6, June 5, 1998. |