Christopher Peterson's Key West
It is windy and gray in Key West on the day I meet female illusionist Christopher Peterson for lunch at LaTeDa, a popular establishment the New York Times calls “an English house party in a Banana republic atmosphere.” A cold front had pushed through two days ago and most everyone is wearing sweatshirts except for the drag queens who, naturally, sport full-length fur coats.
Used to seeing Christopher looking like Liza or Marilyn, I have no idea what to expect. Then suddenly he appears, a pleasant looking man, about 5’9” in a Burberry plaid shirt and as open and friendly as if we had known each other for years instead of seconds. He orders a Mimosa. I start with a Bloody Mary.
Key West is my preferred winter destination. I never tire of its architecture, history, and artistic personalities. Peterson has called the island town his home since 2000 and has been performing his signature Eyecons show to audiences at LaTeDa since 1998. He and his partner James, a writer and a musician, have a condo “up island.”
I’m delighted Christopher had agreed to share with me some of his favorite things about Key West, starting with the red Conch chowder he orders for lunch. An island food staple brought to the island by white Bahamian immigrants in the early 1800s, the term “conch” has evolved over the centuries and now refers to both native Key Westers and permanent residents.
LaTeDa’s chowder is one of the best in town, according to Christopher. The recipe is from Alice Weingarten, a local James Beard award-winning chef with a penchant for cheetah pants, pearls, and cat-eye glasses.
From Conch chowder we move on to the Conch sightseeing train. Yes, it’s a tad touristy, but as Peterson points out, it’s a great way to learn about old Key West and some of its eccentricities, one of them being the largest rubber tree in the world. How large? So large it has its own mailbox. This I know not because I’ve ridden the train, but because the house I’m renting is right across from the rubber tree and the seemingly non-stop tours start at eight o’clock in the morning….
Also across the street is another of Christopher’s recommendations. A visit to the Island House, he says, is an excellent way to start shedding one’s inhibitions. This popular men only sun deck and guesthouse at the top of Fleming Street is where the fellas frolic in the nude or in colorful sarongs. Open to the public, it’s a great place for lunch and a show, especially on Sunday.
Speaking of shows, you won’t be surprised to know that theatre ranks high on Peterson’s list. Get your gay on and check out one of the cabaret shows, either Eyecons or fellow illusionist Randy Roberts at LaTeDa. Oh, and don’t forget the queens at the 801 Bar do shows every night at 9 p.m. and 11 p.m. There are a lot of professional productions too at the Waterfront Playhouse or the Red Barn Theatre.
Tradition is big in Key West so some of you will be pleased to hear that tea dance is still de rigor. Saturday tea dance at Bourbon Street Pub back by the pool is a real “homo soup.” Add boys with cocktails to pool. Stir. Instant party. Sunday tea at LaTeDa attracts a more mature mix of locals and tourists. It’s not what it was in its heyday when hundreds of men in starched white shirts and Lacoste shirts swayed from roof top balconies, but Sylvester’s “You Make Me Feel Mighty Real” can still lure a crowd onto the dance floor.
Ernest Hemingway is another Key West tradition. Seems you can’t go anywhere without seeing some reference to “Papa.” Christopher asks if I’ve ever seen the cat cemetery at the Hemingway House. It’s probably his favorite little known place in Key West. “Papa” loved his pussies, and he was especially fond of polydactyl (six-toed) cats, which were prevalent in East Coast port cities and popular on sailing vessels. The cats residing now at the Hemingway House Museum are descendants from Ernest’s original cats. There’s a little graveyard for the felines, many of which were named for famous people like Zsa Zsa Gabor and Liz Taylor. Because this is Key West, there is a Mr. Bette Davis.
As we wrap up our chat, he shares his final piece of advice for anyone visiting Key West: rent a bicycle and ride. Despite the crowds, the town is very bicycle friendly. It’s one of the things he likes most about the town and it reminds him very much of Rehoboth. If you’re worried about drinking and pedaling, get one of those three-wheelers. You can’t fall off.
Speaking of Rehoboth, I ask how he first came to Rehoboth. Seems Christopher was supposed to appear at the Crown and Anchor in Provincetown for the summer of 1998. In February, however, the establishment burned down in what became known as the Great Wharf fire, the biggest blaze in Province-town’s history. When his plans went up in flames, he accepted a gig at the old Renegade in Rehoboth. Voila, a new tradition born from the ashes.
I ask if he plans to return to Rehoboth this summer. He smiles and very coyly says he’s not sure.
We depart with a hug. He’s off to practice a new song and take care of a jewelry malfunction from the previous night’s show. I’m off to the cat cemetery.
Rich Barnett is the author of The Discreet Charms of a Bourgeois Beach Town. Read more Rich Barnett.